Wednesday, February 19, 2014

A Colorful Observation

“Matice” “La blanche” “Yovo” all local names I go by in my village, or rather what the locals who don’t know me like to call me. You see, I don’t actually respond to these. The first one means “mixed” in French, the second means “the white” in French, and the third means “whitey” in local language. The local kids even have a song “Yovo Yovo, Bonjour/Bonsoir. Ca Va bien? Merci!” (Whitey, whitey, Good morning/ Good evening. It’s going well? Thank you!) Cute right? Some volunteers here think so too. Frankly, I find it all rather annoying and for the most part I ignore anyone, whether they are little kids, old men, teenage girls, or the king himself who calls me by them.  Before I came to Benin, I had this idea in my head, expectations so to speak. I think most African-Americans (I find this classification funny now) do as well. I had this expectation that I’d be returning to home, that I’d feel I don’t know . . . something. No, I didn’t think I’d run into my great great grands here or find my “roots”. But maybe I was expecting just a bit more recognition, welcoming is perhaps the word I’m looking for. But there hasn’t been much of that. Short of a few long conversations not many people recognize what or who I am. They don’t really get that someone who looks like me cannot be white, not be black, and not be just mixed.
Now understand that the children don’t say it to be mean, it’s what their parents teach them to say. I’ve seen mothers (my own neighbor) teaching their 1 year old how to say Yovo while pointing at me. I don’t get how they can’t find that somewhat rude. Well maybe I do. My French teacher explained it to my language group when we first arrived that back before the independence of Benin, 63 years ago the French would give the kids candy if they sang at them. So it stuck. Today being called Yovo is a compliment to the locals here. When women have babies with light skin they call them Yovo, albinos are called Yovo, and adults with light skin take pride in being called Yovo. When I have the time and energy I stop and tell them how impolite I find it but I can’t change a tradition. I can however not give it any positive reinforcement of my own. “La blanche” is a different story. I usually get that from creepy men who in their warped mind think I’m going to be flattered by it. Yuck. So why do I really mind? First off, I’m not white and I’m not mixed, at least not in the way that they understand it to be, which is that I have a white parent and an African parent. Neither of my parents is white and when someone asks where in Africa my parents come from I can’t give an answer.  Second, I’m still used to it being politically incorrect, even if they don’t see it that way. After I express my dislike for it they should at least respect that right? Lastly, in my family we’ve been taught that being called out of your name is impolite. Getting them to understand the concept of African-American has been really difficult. I think maybe I’m beginning to see why.
I told you that I met a Czech couple around New Year’s. When I first saw them in the market we did the “I spot another yovo glance” where you see a foreigner, they look at you, you look at them and you both try to listen to each other’s French to find out where the other is from. I thought she was French at first, and she was talking to her husband and they both obviously assumed I was mixed. I heard her call me “Matice”.  I corrected her and said I was American. She responded “no but your color” I told her I was African-American, she responded so you’re “mixed”? That’s when I started to get it. That night I had dinner with the same couple and she told me how in Czech her husband is pointed out for his skin color and her children are seen as outsiders. I’ve heard similar things from a friend I know that’s been to India and another I know that’s been to Spain.  In these regions prejudice is outright. You are defined in great part by your color, the lighter the better. I won’t go on to say that in America we are so much better off and I definitely won’t go on to say that prejudice doesn’t exist. But at least we know that to be American means more than just to be a color or speak a language. My friend from Czech told me that in Czech there really aren’t any dark skinned people. There just hasn’t been any opportunity for Africans to really immigrate there. I never thought it possible before coming here that places existed where you could live a lifetime and never meet a person whose color is different than yours. I told her she’s doing her part to better her country by marrying a Beninese man.

I remember a woman I met a little after that who had light skin and wavy hair. Her mother was from Germany and her father from Benin. She said she gets the “matice” and “yovo” as well but she classifies herself as Beninese. Not German-Beninese. I started thinking, are the titles African-American, hell even Caucasian, really doing us justice? Do dark skinned French people have to classify themselves as African-French; in Spain, African-Spanish; or in Britain, African-British? When I think about it, and boy I’ve had nothing but time to do just that, we literally and figuratively are so much more than that. Sure, if you have to classify by color, I can sort of understand black and white. But then again we have so much more than that flowing through our veins and continuously being added that those titles are not enough to accurately describe who we are. At least not today, not anymore they aren’t. Maybe at one point they were. Maybe at one point white and black did the job of accurately describing a person. But today we’re all really mixed and with more than just African and Caucasian. What about our Native-American roots? Which I can’t really count unless I’m what is it, 1/8th and documented? How do I know I don’t have some Irish or Greek or Hispanic in me? What measurement of what am I? I don’t know and unless I’m willing to fork out a few thousand dollars I never will, and even then who really knows. I find it easy now, if I feel up to putting in the effort, to just say that I’m American. And if I’m asked about my color I say that “Il y a beaucoup des types des gens aux Etats-Unis. Tous les monde est ensemble.” That usually assuages their curiosity or leaves them confused enough to leave me the hell alone.